Visiting Lancaster County, Part 1

       The belief was present that a great deal was already known about the Amish. For sure. And it seems reasonable to presume that a lot is known currently in mind. However, last month a trip to Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, shed some new light and opened up new areas of understanding that heretofore weren’t completely understood or studied. As it was thought through during the five day journey spent in those parts, several things were observed, really, even more than that, which bore a different form from what was already experienced or perceived at the time. Today, let us evaluate some of those observations and contemplate them.

The Landscape

       Evidence right off the bat upon going up and down hills on the roadways was the difference in landscape. Mostly known to mind is the area of Holmes County, Ohio, and the Amish who reside there. Lots of hills there too. What was clearly different was the fact that the hills weren’t quite as pronounced, first and foremost. The roads themselves seemed to be in overall better shape. No obvious grinding from buggy-wheels or anything like that. Doesn’t seem that one could hardly know that carriages rummaged about those parts simply by looking down at the pavement. That was a good thing. Nice smooth roads. A pleasure to drive on.

       Nonetheless, another difference was recognized as it pertained to the actual farms and houses themselves. The farms appeared to be overall larger. Now, this was a visual observation that came across as being true, but the actual facts on the matter are not currently known. In Ohio, there are some farms which are large, but there a lot of small ones it seems as well. In Pennsylvania, it didn’t seem as though there were as many small ones. And clean and well kept were the farms in those parts. As a matter of fact, it was learned that the land is the most fertile in the world if the mind remembers correctly, at least in the United States. The best land for farming.

       The houses themselves were also large. Large because, again, it was said that Amish families have around eight or more children per family (the Lancaster County average seemed to a little bit higher). One family was pointed out to have twelve children during a tour along the country roads. Another was said to have a mere sixteen. That made one pause for a moment. That house was large and beautiful. Well kept. Lots of outbuildings too. Many clothes hanging on the long line which stretched far out next to the house. Something to behold given the fact behind it. Sixteen children from one couple. But this wasn’t the only house. The architecture varied. Believe even brick homes were spotted without the electric wiring making its way to the house.

       Almost all these houses were kept very clean on the outside. The landscaping was beautiful. Flowers abundant. Grass freshly and neatly cut. One young Amish lad was witnessed doing this with the old-fashioned motor-less pusher. Yes indeed. Many of the homes looked to be in prime shape even though they hadn’t been recently built. Clean siding. No obvious signs of wear. Everything almost looked new, but it wasn’t. Certainly, there was money in these people’s pockets. And it showed in the perfect maintenance. The colorful and elaborate clothing stretched across the lines sewed to perfection matched the very houses from which they came.

Clothing

       And while we are on the subject of clothing, we might as well discuss this topic. That was another easy, noteworthy observation that came rather quickly. It was first noticed upon driving toward town on the first day. Riding up behind an open-carriage, it was observed the Amish people in it seemed fancier than what was familiar. Yes, upon closer glance, the clothing appeared to be actually more stately, pretty colorful, extra pristine. This was the case whether one considered the man or the woman. Or even the children. It all looked nearly as if one was watching a reenactment for early 1800s England. Not quite. But close. The Regency Era. Like in Pride and Prejudice. There was the feeling of being stunned by the whole thing. It wasn’t expected. Why so different from the Amish in Ohio?

       This was especially noticed while walking into a coffee shop in the small town of Intercourse. There, a couple mothers stepped in with their young children. It is known that the very young Amish generally resemble miniature adults. And these children did. But, even more than that was the fact that they were dressed with such nice clothing it looked as if they were going for a photoshoot. It was like the English when they dress their kids up to get their pictures taken at some fancy studio with the sets, lighting, and everything else. You know. Those pictures that will hang on the walls for years to come, some 20 to 30 years later. But no. These were just daily clothes for these young kids. It seems if those same clothes were to be bought by English parents they would probably be quite expensive. It has now been ascertained that hand-sewing pays off.

       At the same time, going back within that first open-carriage originally seen, it was noticed that the women’s head covering was significantly different. In the case here, it was almost circular but flat. It didn’t protrude out from back the head much of a distance. It was as if a Holmes County one had been flattened with a wooden cutting board smashed down upon it. In observing the shape, it seemed to represent best that of a heart. Certainly, the prayer coverings in Ohio vary greatly, from the long, solid white ones to the almost see-through, all the way to the free-flowing veils worn by some ‘Beachy’ Amish. Anyway, the heart-shaped coverings also didn’t seem as purely white as those seen in the strictest of the Ohio Amish. And during no time was any other type of covering witnessed, where, in contrast, many have been observed in Holmes County.

Carriages

       Zooming out a bit, the carriage upon which those people rode, and the carriages observed subsequently gave the impression of being more polished and expensive than their Ohio counterparts. In fact, it seems that the word ‘carriage’ itself fits better here versus the word ‘buggy.’ (The term ‘carriage’ seems more glamorous for some reason). They glistened in the sun. Shinny sparkles. Clean wheels (perhaps again due to the nice roads). No difference, however, was seen between the horses. They seemed pretty much the same. However, on a few occasions some rather nice-looking husky horses were seen at the lead, similar to clydesdales. Perhaps they were clydesdales? Little is known in mind about horses currently. Perhaps it could be studied someday.

       And that brings the main focus to mind when discussing the carriages, and that is the covered ones themselves appeared quite different. Usually grey instead of black. (Though, on occasion some appeared to be black, but this could have just been the way the sun was hitting them from a distance). The buggies of Holmes County generally seem to vaguely resemble the design language of an old 1800s steam train. Not these buggies. Their dark grey makeup had a more clean square structure, with a rounded top. Interesting design. Looked particularly classic. For whatever reason, it brought to mind the cars from the 1930s. Those retro circular-carved cars, famous for their glamour. Hollywood actors and actress used to ride around in them, and these Amish seemed closer to those folks (that’s a bit of an exaggeration).

Wealth in General

       The Holmes County plain people seem to be more rustic in nature. In other words, the image corresponds to what is held in mind when one wonders and tries to guess in free-flowing thoughts what the Amish might be like. The landscape is a mix of neat, neutral, to the surprisingly in need of up-keeping. The buggies, while mostly uniform, do not appear expensive per se or even look that sophisticated. The dress across the board seems modest, perhaps actually thrifty in some situations. The prayer coverings worn by the women perhaps not as glamorous. The women also do not appear as though they are about to walk out on a movie set for some historical piece set for a couple hundred years ago. And the same could be said for the kids.

       As previously discussed, not so with the Lancaster County Amish. It is the opposite. And where does all this money come from? Why is there this difference? As perviously stated, the land is the most fertile of land. There is plenty of room to make money with that farming. Maybe? Is that right? Is there a lot of money in farming anymore? Probably in some cases, such as in Lancaster County. But it’s also the other modes of money making. The furniture shops. That’s a pretty large industry it’s understood. Perhaps larger than the farming? With the Amish, it seems so. And then there are the other small businesses, as in produce, honey, and quilts. We know how those work. Lots of money can be made in these areas from selling to locals and tourists alike.

       Perhaps it is due to the strong work ethic that Amish feel they are able to achieve so many good feats, and do indeed become quite successful. After all, their structure for business is laid out in Biblical principles mostly. Proverbs is likely the go-to book. In reading Erik Wesner’s book ‘Success Made Simple: An Inside Look at Why Amish Businesses Thrive’, this can be easily understood. That is a fantastic book, one of my favorites of the Amish genre. There is now even an audio version available (on Audible), and that is still on the to-do list. Anyway, the plain people seem to believe that if they put their mind to it, they can accomplish whatever it is. And they have the old ancient principles to guide them on just how to do that. Truth which as been tested over time, over lots and lots of time.

       In Lancaster County, it can be understood that no plain business appears too big. That’s done on purpose. The Amish understand that there is no need to accumulate more and more millions in the pursuit of being ‘rich.’ In fact, they would believe it is sin to do so. It is becoming too haughty, too big, too proud. Now, in Holmes County, it seems like there are ‘bigger’ non-farming businesses, at least in looking at building sizes. Again, this is mere speculation. The Amish don’t accumulate their money to become rich, but rather it is just a by-product of hard work and proper business practices. They are thrifty. They often don’t fill their businesses with the latest technology that is available. As a matter of fact, the mind recalls instances where business were prohibited from getting large in size by self-accountabilty.

Other Things

       About four days in an Amish lighting shop was discovered which brought about the opportunity to ponder what the Amish themselves had to offer in this area. You know. Amish and lights. No electricity. What will they be like? This interested the mind anyway. Standing there with the eyes trying to focus on the vast array of contraptions beheld, the ears detected to the side some jostling about as someone was fiddling with something. Upon turning, it was discerned the thing being fiddled with was a light that actually was three lights in one, at different levels. Quite fancy. Looked nice. At this point, a voice spoke and the young, smiling Amish lady approached and began a conversation. Any questions? You bet. But not necessarily about the lights, but it certainly began that direction.

       The conversation that ensued became one of the most fruitful of the entire journey simply because it was a first hand source. And speaking of sources, that is where we began. The light. Power. From what source did that power come? Walking with her over several feet, the eyes fixed upon a large battery. Identical to something you’d see for a tool or the weed-eater that has been used in the past. “This is how it works,” she exclaimed, picking up the contraption. A light retro-fixed with a battery that looked like it was for a tool or yard-machine. Interesting. But why? We know why. Then it was demonstrated how the battery could be removed and charged. She seemed proud of the whole thing. Later it would be learned that these batteries were unexpectedly used in light fixtures that hung from the ceiling of all things.

       Twenty-two years old. Around five to five-two it would be estimated. Confident. Black apron over a dark-colored plain dress. That one head-covering. Eleven brothers and sisters combined? It seems that’s how many it was.

       Moments later, the conversation had indeed morphed into head coverings. Yes for sure. The mouth had guided it that direction out of curiosity. At this moment, perhaps the most interesting statement by any Amish person for the entire trip came forth. It wasn’t expected. In discussing what had been observed, it was compared with those of the women in Holmes County. She said they would be “the more conservative Amish.” Wow. This meant that the line of thinking inside the mind held up to be true thus far, and that was that the Amish in these parts seemed to possess a greater happy-go-lucky vibe to them. Quite relaxed even. Not as stressed. Not as worn by the harsh realities of living a plain life. Regency. England. 1810. Anyway, it was so very interesting that she would be willing to basically admit that the Lancaster County Amish were not as die-hard as the Holmes County Amish. The mind just found it fascinating and so unexpected from a direct source.

       Be that as it may, and certainly because technology is loved and held in mind with such positive affection, we found ourselves talking about it. The mouth again guided us there. Smartphones particularly. Of course. The truth had to be known. Did she have a smartphone? What was the general position of these local Amish on smartphones? No, she didn’t have one. Some did, it was explained, howbeit somewhat hesitantly. “What is the position of your ministers?” it was asked. Oh, they’d be against the use of them it was quickly assured. “Then,” it was said, “You shouldn’t use them.” She should always follow the guidance of the church it was exhorted. The young lady had to be guided on the right-path, but she didn’t need it. She knew. She quickly agreed with what was said. She was faithful to her church.

       Peering down at the smartphone held in hand, the eyes became big. A ride to catch. One actually almost missed (this particular travel-outing involved a group of people). Quickly, she was told that the ride would have to be caught. Disappointment came over her face as if she didn’t want the conversation to end. Indeed, the mind had been so engrossed in the dialogue that time had been completely forgotten, and the ride almost missed. She said she understood, and steps were proceeded toward the exit. The vehicle was pulling up to leave upon reaching the outside, but hadn’t left yet. So, the coach hadn’t been missed.

- Daniel Litton

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